Companhia dos Profetas e Vilões Verdelho, Madeira 2024

Such a thrilling, dry white wine (just in case you thought all Madeira was sweet), sourced from Verdelho vines on the north side of the island, very close to the ocean and it positively pinballs across the palate with yuzu, grated lime peel, struck flint, matchstick and salty margarita notes. It’s a wine that pings with energy, unmistakeably an island wine, with a breezy Atlantic freshness and, although it’s only 12% alcohol, it has surprising weight and length. If I were forced to compare it to another wine, I’d say it sits somewhere between Didier Dagueneau’s ‘Silex’ and a Listan Blanco from Tenerife. I bet that was helpful. It was fermented and aged on its lees in barrel (although a portion was raised in stainless steel to retain Verdelho’s natural brightness). Drink now-2032. The Wine Advocate: “This has a reductive profile with notes of flint and some spicy and smoky hints (they had some new barrels in 2023). It has 12% alcohol and high acidity (around eight grams) after full malolactic and is sharp, chalky, tasty, saline, pungent and dry. It should age nicely in bottle. 1,500 bottles produced. Drink now-2036.” 95 points