Charmes Chambertin Nicolas Potel 2002

Charmes Chambertin Nicolas Potel 2002
 
Maison Nicolas Potel started life with the 1997 vintage. Much has already been said about the reasons, but to quickly summarise; following the unexpected death of Nicolas� father a number of the syndicate that owned the Domaine Pousse d�Or decided it was time to cash in their investment � ultimately it meant that Nicolas left what was both his family home and the Domaine Pousse d�Or.
It was time for a new challenge and, hence, the business was born. Compared to many who start a n�gociant business, Nicolas had life relatively easy in that he had little difficulty sourcing grapes for his business. Not only were friends of the family and others who did business with them sympathetic to his position � so happily made portions of their crop available � but there was also a queue of willing merchants who were ready to take the wines. There is, of course, a responsibility that comes with �gifts� like these in that they should be used to the best effect. I think that, to-date, you will find broad approval for the results. You will also find reference to two of these �first vintage� 1997�s in the vintage round-up elsewhere in this issue.
 
Meteoric would be an apt descriptor for the venture to-date; Already in 1999 something over 80 cuv�es were produced, for 2001 it was over 100 and for 2002 there are around 120 cuv�es in preparation from 50 appellations � and that�s only from the C�te d�Or � Nicolas is also active in Beaujolais � see the panel below. Today the business is in the region of 300,000 bottles per year � that�s seriously impressive growth. Nicolas now has a co-worker � Xavier Meney who acts as Business Manager and was the one who gave up so much time for the barrel tasting which follows. One thing that has struck me about the business is their distribution � certainly in Europe and Japan � you can find the wines all over the place. This is a compliment, as some producers can be incredibly difficult to find.

The philosophy here makes a virtue of the n�gociant status, providing a very flexible basis for the business. Big demands are placed on the growers; even from fine vineyards if a grower will not accept to work in a particular way � despite a higher price for the crop � Nicolas will walk away. Now we start getting closer to the basis of Nicolas� success. Prime vineyard sites, only old vines � 35 years minimum but typically much older � and growers who work in an organic or even biodynamic way.